Tellason
Rated: Fair
Price: $$$
Location: USA
Quick verdict
Tellason is best for men who want buy-it-for-life raw selvedge denim jeans made in America, with a focus on heritage craftsmanship over fast-fashion trends. What stands out is that every garment is cut and sewn in San Francisco, One of the last brands producing denim in the birthplace of blue jeans. And raw/unwashed denim eliminates the massively water- and chemical-intensive finishing processes used by most manufacturers. The caveat: this is not a certified sustainable brand. It holds zero third-party certifications, uses no organic or recycled cotton, and the sustainability story rests on raw denim's inherent advantages and domestic production.
Key info
- Headquarters
- San Francisco, California, USA
- Founded
- 2008
- Product categories
- Denim, Menswear
- Price range
- $$$
- Key certifications
- None. No B Corp, GOTS, OEKO-TEX, or Fair Trade.
Tellason sustainability rating
Our ratings are based on a scale from 1 (We Avoid) to 5 (Excellent). How we rate
Rating breakdown
100% cotton raw selvedge denim from Kaihara Mills (Japan) for premium line; Stock line uses Cone Mills denim. All-cotton (no synthetics) avoids microplastic pollution. Raw denim skips water- and chemical-intensive finishing. However, no organic cotton, no recycled materials, and no material certifications.
All garments cut and sewn in San Francisco under US labor laws. Founders personally oversee production and inspect each pair. Small team. No third-party labor certifications, no published code of conduct, no specific wage or conditions data.
Raw denim eliminates the most environmentally damaging wet processing phase. 100% cotton means no microplastic shedding. Long product lifespan reduces replacement. Offers repair services. But no carbon data, no water reporting, no renewable energy claims, no circularity program.
Open about manufacturing location (SF) and fabric sources (Kaihara, Cone Mills). However, no factory list, no supply chain mapping, no sustainability report, no impact data, no wage disclosure, and no third-party certifications.
Selvedge jeans ~$230–$248, Stock jeans ~$139, jackets ~$248–$328. Less expensive than Japanese brands (Iron Heart $300–$400) and on par with 3Sixteen and Rogue Territory. Stock line at $139 is exceptional value for made-in-USA raw denim.
What they do well
- 100% made in San Francisco. Every garment cut and sewn locally using American-sourced hardware, One of the very last brands manufacturing denim in SF
- Raw denim = inherent environmental benefit. Selling only raw/unwashed denim skips the most water- and chemical-intensive phase of conventional denim production (typically ~3,781 liters per pair)
- Exceptional build quality and longevity. Universally praised by Heddels and Denimhunters for construction quality including reverse yoke construction, chain-stitched hems, and reinforced pocket bags
- Accessible Stock line at ~$139: provides an affordable entry point to made-in-USA raw denim
- Hemming and repair services. Encourage product longevity and reduce waste
Room for improvement
- No formal sustainability certifications or reporting. Zero certifications (no B Corp, GOTS, OEKO-TEX, Fair Trade) and no sustainability reports, carbon data, or measurable environmental goals
- No organic or recycled materials: 100% conventional cotton. Given that cotton cultivation accounts for ~92% of the water footprint of a pair of jeans, this is a meaningful sustainability gap
- Very limited transparency on supply chain and worker welfare. Beyond naming Kaihara and the SF factory, no details on factory conditions, worker wages, environmental practices at mills, or independent auditing
About Tellason
Tellason was founded in 2008 in San Francisco by lifelong friends Tony Patella and Pete Searson. The name being a portmanteau of their surnames. Born during the Great Recession, the brand was a direct response to disposable consumer culture, with a mission to make durable, timeless jeans in the birthplace of blue denim.
Originally using proprietary selvedge denim from the legendary Cone Mills White Oak plant in Greensboro, North Carolina (where Tellason was the 4th-largest customer), the brand transitioned to Japanese Kaihara Mills after White Oak's closure in 2017. Selvedge jeans come in 12.5 oz, 14.75 oz, and 16.5 oz weights. The more affordable Stock line uses non-selvedge Cone Mills denim woven in Mexico.
All garments are cut and sewn in San Francisco with American-sourced hardware. The brand sells raw/unwashed denim exclusively, avoiding chemical- and water-intensive finishing. Tellason offers hemming and repair services and free shipping/returns on US orders over $150.
At $230–$248 for selvedge and $139 for Stock, Tellason is competitively priced against 3Sixteen and Rogue Territory, and significantly cheaper than Japanese premium brands. The brand holds no formal sustainability certifications and does not publish sustainability reports.
Product highlights
John Graham Mellor (Slim Straight Selvedge)
Flagship fit named after The Clash's Joe Strummer; Kaihara selvedge, button fly, chain-stitched hem
~$248
The original design that launched the brand; universally recommended by Heddels
Tellason Stock Slim Tapered
Non-selvedge raw denim, 14 oz sanforized, paper waist patch (fully vegan)
~$139
Best value in lineup. Made-in-USA raw denim under $150
Coverall Jacket
Original chore coat with signature "newspaper pocket" and angled eyeglasses pocket
~$248–$328
Cult following since 2011 debut; original Tellason design; exceptional fade potential
Fatigue Pant (Olive Sateen)
Military-inspired pant in 8.5 oz cotton sateen
~$225
Shows range beyond denim; high-quality workwear-inspired alternative
