On Running
Rated: Fair
Price: $$$
Location: Switzerland
Quick verdict
On Running is a $2.6 billion Swiss athletic brand (NYSE: ONON) with genuinely pioneering material innovations: CleanCloud foam from captured carbon emissions, LightSpray robotic manufacturing, and the Cyclon circular subscription ($29.99/month). However, the labour record is weak, a 2024 Swiss investigation exposed factory condition inconsistencies, and significant customer service issues undermine the premium positioning.
Key info
- Headquarters
- Zurich, Switzerland
- Founded
- 2010
- Product categories
- Shoes, Sneakers, Activewear
- Price range
- $$$
- Key certifications
- SBTi target set (claims on track). bluesign system partner. Cascale/Higg Index participant. Publishes supplier list (updated twice yearly). No B Corp or Fashion Transparency Index score.
On Running sustainability rating
Our ratings are based on a scale from 1 (We Avoid) to 5 (Excellent). How we rate
Rating breakdown
CleanCloud foam converts captured carbon emissions into EVA shoe foam (partnership with Borealis/LanzaTech). LightSpray reduces components from 200 to 7. Cyclon shoes are 91% recyclable from bio-based PA-11 polyamide. 87% organic cotton in apparel (ahead of 100% target).
Most production in Vietnam and Indonesia, Countries with extreme labour abuse risk. 2024 Swiss SRF investigation exposed factory condition inconsistencies. No evidence all workers paid living wages. NYU Stern urged Fair Labor Association membership.
27% emission reduction per product between 2019–2022. Cyclon shoes produce 50% less CO2 than standard On shoes. Impact Progress Reports published. 24 measurable external goals. However, CleanCloud is still limited production, years from scaling.
Cyclon subscription ($29.99/month) is a genuine circular model. Shoes returned, recycled via Infinite Loop fibre-to-fibre technology. Onward re-commerce pilot for used gear. However, subscription may incentivise premature returns.
Publishes supplier list updated twice yearly. Impact Progress Reports in 2022 and 2023. bluesign system partner. However, not in Fashion Transparency Index and SRF investigation revealed gaps between claims and conditions.
What they do well
- Carbon-capture material innovation: CleanCloud foam converts captured carbon emissions from steel mills and landfills into EVA shoe foam through a partnership with Borealis and LanzaTech. A first-of-its-kind supply chain.
- Cyclon circular subscription: $29.99/month subscription model using 91% recyclable bio-based shoes with Infinite Loop fibre-to-fibre recycling technology. Each Cyclon shoe produces 50% less CO2 than a standard On shoe.
- LightSpray manufacturing breakthrough: Robotic process depositing a single continuous filament to create shoe uppers, reducing components from 150–200 to just 7 and yielding ultra-lightweight 6oz shoes with dramatically reduced waste.
- Measurable sustainability goals: 24 measurable external goals across Social Impact, Material Innovation, and Circularity. 27% emission reduction per product achieved between 2019 and 2022.
Room for improvement
- Weak labour record: Most production occurs in countries with extreme labour abuse risk. Only some workers are confirmed paid living wages. No diversity or inclusion support documented in the supply chain.
- Factory condition investigation: A 2024 Swiss National Radio and Television (SRF) investigation exposed inconsistencies between environmental claims and actual conditions at Vietnam factories. NYU Stern urged Fair Labor Association membership.
About On Running
On Running was founded in Zurich in 2010 by Olivier Bernhard (former Swiss Ironman champion), David Allemann, and Caspar Coppetti. The brand went public on NYSE in September 2021 and now commands a market capitalisation of approximately $15.5 billion. Roger Federer invested approximately $50 million in 2019 for a stake now estimated at $400–600 million. FY2024 revenue reached $2.633 billion, up 31.9% year-over-year.
The material innovation portfolio is genuinely pioneering. CleanCloud foam converts captured carbon emissions from steel mills and landfills into EVA shoe foam through a partnership with Borealis and LanzaTech. A first-of-its-kind supply chain still in limited production and expected to take three-plus years to scale. LightSpray technology, debuted at the 2024 Paris Olympics, uses robotic manufacturing to deposit a single continuous filament creating shoe uppers with just 7 components instead of 150–200. The Cyclon subscription programme ($29.99/month) provides bio-based shoes (50%+ PA-11 polyamide from castor beans) that are 91% recyclable through Infinite Loop fibre-to-fibre technology.
The labour dimension significantly undermines the sustainability positioning. Most production in Vietnam and Indonesia where labour abuse risks are extreme. A 2024 Swiss National Radio and Television investigation exposed inconsistencies between environmental marketing and actual factory conditions in Vietnam. NYU Stern's Center for Business and Human Rights responded by urging On to join the Fair Labor Association and calling on Roger Federer to demand investigation and remediation.
Consumer trust is severely damaged. Trustpilot shows 1.3 out of 5 across 3,000+ reviews for on-running.com. Among the worst scores for any premium brand. Complaints centre on extremely slow refund processing (3–6 weeks), shoes squeaking, insoles wearing down quickly, soles detaching, and unhelpful outsourced customer service. This contrasts starkly with the $130–$300 price positioning and innovative brand image.
Product highlights
Cyclon Subscription Shoe
Bio-based running shoe (50%+ PA-11 polyamide from castor beans); 91% recyclable; returned and recycled via Infinite Loop technology
~$29.99/month (subscription)
The industry's most ambitious circular footwear model. Shoes designed from the start for disassembly and fibre-to-fibre recycling
Cloud 5
Signature lightweight everyday running shoe with CloudTec cushioning; bluesign-approved materials available
~$149
On's bestselling shoe. The entry point that defines the brand's distinctive cushioning technology
Cloudmonster
Maximum-cushion running shoe with oversized CloudTec pods; recycled materials in select versions
~$169
The brand's boldest design. Maximum cushioning in the most visually distinctive silhouette, popular with running communities
CleanCloud Shoe (Limited)
Running shoe with midsole foam made from captured carbon emissions (partnership with Borealis/LanzaTech); limited availability
~$180–$200 (estimated)
The world's first shoe foam made from carbon emissions. Genuinely breakthrough technology, though still years from global scale
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